The barbecue recipe at The Fifty/50, a bar and grill in Chicago, pulls from a few traditions. Ribs (full rack $24, half rack $18), which are the 140-seat restaurant’s best-selling entrée, are dry-rubbed and slow-smoked, then glazed before taking a turn on the grill. The final glazing, says co-owner Scott Weiner, is nontraditional, as is the sweet sauce that’s thicker than a traditional Texas tomato-based sauce.

What’s going on at Fifty/50 points to a melting-pot trend in barbecue. Barbecue used to be closely associated with different regions—thick, sweet sauce in Texas, vinegar sauce in the Carolinas—but for some restaurants, those rules are falling away like meat from a rib bone.

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