As an icon of American culture, the hamburger is infinitely variable. Though enduring as many costume changes as Madonna and Lady Gaga combined, the burger is essentially a statement of utter simplicity: a grilled or fried or broiled patty of ground beef served between two pieces of bread. The additions or condiments depend as much on regional tradition as personal taste. The lettuce-tomato-mayonnaise camp mans the barricades against the ketchup-mustard-pickle contingent, and never the twain shall agree.

In the early 21st century, however, the humble (though revered) hamburger underwent a transformation into the “gourmet” or “designer” burger. If not the first to create such a thing then certainly the first to be highly publicized was Daniel Boulud’s effort at his DB Bistro Moderne restaurant in Manhattan. This was a hockey puck of ground sirloin stuffed with truffles, foie gras and the meat from braised short ribs; it sold for $26. The floodgates opened.

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