Gordon Ramsay, Anthony Bourdain and Tom Colicchio teach New York chefs to cook up fiery tempers
Lately, chefs have been taking their beefs – with critics, unruly customers, and even former employees – public. Whether it’s a restaurant owner responding to an unfavorable review or a chef throwing a customer out of a restaurant, the food service industry has perhaps never been so tempestuous.
Just think of it as chefs – and restaurateurs – gone wild.
Like last week, when New York magazine restaurant critic Adam Platt panned Keith McNally’s new pizza restaurant, Pulino’s, giving it one star. The porchetta was “greasy and bland”; the margherita pizza was covered in a “weirdly thick, almost toothpastelike tomato sauce”; and the restaurant itself was “overheated” and loud, Platt wrote.
In response, McNally sent a letter to Platt and a couple food blogs, calling the critic “bald” and “overweight.” “Let’s just hope that in future you can resist criticizing less formal restaurants as harshly as you did Pulino,” McNally concluded. Well, game on!
“Chefs for ages have been known to be kind of ill tempered,” says Amanda Kludt, editor-in-chief of Eater.com.
But now, they have access to a more public forum for their anger.
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