Nothing Gordon Ramsay does is ever simple, straightforward, or lacking in drama, and the opening of his new restaurant earlier this month continued that tradition.

The new restaurant, called Petrus, is a few minutes’ walk from the Berkeley Hotel, site of the former incarnation of Petrus, until an acrimonious split in 2008 between the celebrity chef and his former friend and protégé Marcus Wareing, who now runs an acclaimed restaurant there under his own name.

Ramsay took away the name and the wine cellar (which included a collection of multiple vintages of Chateau Petrus), and recently declared himself delighted to be resuming the fray in the same neighbourhood.

Petrus isn’t large: it seats just over 40, with tables arranged in a semi-circle around an air-conditioned, floor-to-ceiling glass tower that houses a wine cellar of 1,500 bottles, arrayed on their sides in clear plastic racks.

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