White tablecloths might get the attention, but today’s smart money is on laid-back concepts.

It doesn’t take a genius to figure out that many Americans are trading down on their already less-frequent dining out occasions. Many upscale owners and chefs are having an identity crisis trying to figure out how to stay relevant to an ever-evolving audience.

Today’s increasingly relaxed dining scene is chock full of contrasts: Michelin-star chefs plying the streets of Manattan in Kogi-style trucks, Iron Chefs packing ‘em in at burger joints, neighborhood dives bankrolled by the same folks behind prestigious names. Some chefs have gutted their now-too-stuffy flagship restaurant and morphed it into a more approachable offshoot. Still others, sticking to their guns, have added cheaper, simpler menus to their bars to bring in status- but budget-conscious patrons. Clearly, there is more than one path.

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