Villari’s Milmarian on Route 73 has been variously known as Villari’s; the Milmarian; The Mill; and most recently, Villari’s Bistro, Bar & Grill.

A borough mainstay since Sicilian immigrant Paul Villari Sr. and his wife, Natalie, opened it in 1948, it’s an institution — with all the good and bad connotations that implies.

“There’s not another restaurant like this in South Jersey,” said Paul Villari III of Cinnaminson, who operates the family-owned spot with his parents, Paul Jr. and Helen. “After more than 60 years, our customers are extended family.”

But after six decades, the familiar location was looking tired, and Villari wondered how to attract new diners while keeping the regular clientele. He’s found the answer with help from a national cable TV network.

Following a nonstop renovation that began at 7 a.m. Sunday and ended about 37 hours later, Villari’s reopened Monday at 6 p.m. with an upscale look — and 300 reservations spurred by the buzz around town.

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