The hardest part of running a fish restaurant in the Hamptons is not getting the wreckfish from the bottom of the sea to the kitchen. It is not getting the permits from the health department or the liquor license from the state. It is not finding a chef or guests or organic mesclun. The hardest part of running a fish restaurant in the Hamptons is getting the fish from the kitchen to the table.
That’s it. Kitchen to table. What a concept! I kid you not: getting the food from the chef to the guest in a timely and polite fashion by a timely and polite staff is the great white whale. Those last 50 feet may as well be an ocean.